Ireland's second highest mountain is a rugged beast but the views are tops, says JOHN G DWYER
SO YOU WOULD like a high level outing among jagged mountains that remain resolutely remote and raw? Excellent – let’s head for Kerry.
But you also want to savour Ireland’s tallest peaks? Great – it’s MacGillycuddy’s Reeks then. And, oh yes, you are getting slightly jaded with hillwalking and now seek some upland adventure. Brilliant – an ascent of Ireland’s second highest mountain by the memorable Hag’s Tooth Ridge is just the ticket to sharpen your climbing toolkit while not demanding full-on, high octane exposure.
Denoted Sumpa an tSaimhin maps of MacGillycuddy's Reeks, the unmistakeable pinnacle that rises above Lough Gouragh in Kerry's Hag's Glen is, nevertheless, known almost universally by walkers and climbers as the Hag's Tooth. And the eponymous ridge lying above offers a series of à la carte scrambling opportunities ideal for those transiting from the contemplative serenity of hillwalking to the knee-knocking intensity of near vertical ridges.
It was a rare blue sky Friday when I left Lisleibane car park (see panel) and headed up the Hag’s Glen on an outing with Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers. We ambled pleasantly along the broad track before breaking right at a stream and following an eroded path uphill towards the brooding face of Carrauntoohil. When the “Tooth” towered directly above, our walk leader turned sharply to ascend a grassy, stone-littered gully. As this petered out we swung behind the “tooth” before scrambling to the tiny summit which surely offers one of Ireland’s most dramatic photo opportunities.
Now the delights of the Hag's Tooth Ridge beckoned. Continuing our ascent, we were quickly reminded we had escaped from cotton wool society as we crossed a large boilerplate rock that dropped somewhat alarmingly left. Scrambling opportunities now abounded but everywhere it was possible to ascend à la carteby either accepting the challenge of an obstacle or finding an easier bypass route. One exposed rockstep did present some temporary difficulties in the strengthening wind, but it was soon overcome and we continued upwards to where the ridge separated into twin crests.
Spoiled by choice, we ambled up the scree slopes in the centre but, when the ridgetops reunited, we were again seduced by several interesting rocky scrambles. Like most Kerry mountains, Beenkeragh doesn’t yield easily and there were a few tantalisingly false summits as we continued ascending a chaotic jumble of sandstone.
IRELAND’S SECOND highest mountain is actually a rugged, unpretentious beast with few of Carrauntoohil’s intricate complexities but, cometh the summit, it amply rewarded us with intoxicating views encompassing the startlingly sheer cliffs above Cummeenoughter and glorious views into Coomloughra. In the opposite direction our vista stretched from the shimmering outline of the Galtee Mountains to the outrageously photogenic Blasket Islands.
From here most walkers are drawn instinctively to the knife-edge Beenkeragh Ridge which offers an exhilarating route to the roof of Ireland. It was now blowing a near gale, however, and after some discussion we decided to explore Knockbrinnea Mountain instead. So we bade farewell to the summit and descended the path northwards. After a short distance we parted company with the route for Coomloughra and followed a faint, bouldery track treading downhill and right towards a broad col. Initially the going was tedious but soon the ground improved and led us to a huge natural cairn of stones.
Overshadowed by its more celebrated neighbours, Knockbrinnea is generally an unloved peek rarely troubled by walkers. This is a pity since it offered us pleasant rambling and great views as we traversed its two main and one subsidiary summit. So it was in good spirits that we reached the north top from where it was just a question of following a broad dog-leg spur as it descended pleasingly enough to rejoin the Hag’s Glen track and then follow this (left) to Lisleibane car park.
Hag's Tooth Ridge
STARTING POINTLeave Killarney by the N72. At Fossa head turn left for Gap of Dunloe. Continue, leaving the Gap on your left and ignore a finger sign for Carrauntoohil. Take the next left and go left again for Lisleibane car park.
SUITABILITYCarry a map and compass, prepare for a tough ascent and have one person in the group with a competence in coping with steep ground.
TIMEA minimum of five hours.
MAPSHarvey Superwalker 1:30,000 MacGillycuddy's Reeks; Ordnance Survey Ireland 1:25,000 map MacGillycuddys Reeks
ACCOMMODATIONLight snacks nearby at Cronin's Yard tearooms (croninsyard.com). Overnight at Castlerosse Hotel (castlerosse.ie). It also has a leisure centre.